We have covered a lot of brands in the first two parts. We started with the HMT Pilot, and Vostok Komandirske, and finished with Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaut, and Panerai Radiomir 8 day. All of these watches are great. I own an HMT Pilot myself, and wear it regularly. It is small, and unique in, its simplicity.
But this list is ultra high end today. We are starting at 15,000 dollars and going up from there. There may be some branding overlap, I am not sure yet, but I expect these models to be wonderful works or timekeeping.
The Best Men's Mechanical Hand Wind Watches for Under...
The best men's mechanical hand wind watch for under 15,000
We all know by now that Omega is one of my favorite watchmakers in the world today. I love their product, and their presence in pop culture. They, in my mind, are all the things you want in a watch maker. This Omega Speedmaster is no different. The Speedmaster Moon watch made the best men's mechanical hand wind watches for under...Part 2, in the under 5000 dollar price point. That watch is very similar to this one, this one is made of slightly more expensive materials though.
The Speedmaster has a 39.7mm case made of Sedna Gold. It sports a crown at the 3 o'clock position and the chronograph, auxiliary buttons are located at the 2 & 4 o'clock positions. The back of the case has the original Omega Seahorse emblem, and the bezel it a ceramic, tachymeter style, in black. The lens is sapphire, and covers the silver dial face. The hours are marked with indexes and the minutes are also marked with smaller indexes on a black ring. There are 3 sub dials, two are the chronograph timers, and the sub dial at the 6 o'clock position is a small seconds dial, the watch utilizes the central sweeping second for the chronograph functions. The hands of the watch are gold and are imbued with Super-Luminova, along with the hour markers, for night time visibility. The band of the watch is leather, with a buckle style clasp.
The movement is the hand wound, original 1861. It has 48 hour power reserve. It is an 18 jewel movement, and runs at 21,600 bph. It is a famous movement, and has been in production since around 1968. It is a fabulous movement.
The watch sells for around 12,000 dollars through most online retailers. The price will vary, so you might want to shop around. Personally, I would love to get my hands on this watch, but I do believe that to be in my distant future.
The best men's mechanical hand wind watch for under 20,000
Maurice Lacroix was founded in 1975. It was a created subsidiary of Desco von Schulthess or Zurich. Desco has been a representative for luxury watches since 1946, and in 1961, they acquired a facility named Tiara, in Switzerland, and began producing private label watches for third parties. But by 1975, they started marketing their watches under the brand Maurice Lacroix. The brand became quickly popular, and by 1980 they ceased producing the third party watches in order to focus on their own brand. In the 1990's, they released their Masterpiece line, which skyrocketed their popularity, and gave them a product that could compete with the heavy hitters, such as Rolex and Omega.
The Double Retrograde Manual wind is not still being manufactured as far as I can tell, but it is still being sold. Maurice Lacroix seems to be moving to automatic movements now. So, you can get a very similar watch in an automatic now as well.
The Double Retrograde is fairly big. The case measures in at 46mm, and is made of 18 karat gold. The crown, also gold, is located at the 3 o'clock position and it sports a fixed, smooth bezel, with sapphire crystal lenses on both the front and the back of the watch. The face is an off white and sports 4 sub dials. The hours are marked with gold indexes, and minutes are marked with black indexes, and the large hands, as well as two of the four smaller hands of the watch are gold. The remaining two are black steel. The date sub dial is located at the 6 o'clock position and a GMT dial is at the 12 o'clock position. The other two dials represent a small seconds, and a power reserve gauge. The band is leather and has a folding style deployment clasp.
The movement is a Maurice Lacroix manual wind, ML151. It sports 52 jewels, and has a 44 hour power reserve. It runs at 18,000 bph. It is a true in house movement, and I have heard really positive things about it.
Generally you can find the Gold Double Retrograde Manual wind for around 17,500 dollars. The reviews on the watch are fantastic, and I feel you are getting a true classic if you choose this watch. It is definitely a very pretty watch, and the specs of the watch look great.
The best men's mechanical hand wind watch for under 25,000
RGM was founded in the United states in 1992 by Roland G. Murphy. He finally set up his company in Lancaster, PA. and has been producing absolutely beautiful time pieces ever since. He is a Swiss trained, American watch maker, and he is doing things right. Exactly what I would hope for from an American company. Something we do not see very often anymore. These watches are American made.
This Pennsylvania Series watch has a 43.3mm, rose gold case. The crown is located at the 3 o'clock position. The watch sports sapphire crystal lenses on both the front and back of the watch, allowing you to see the movement. The dial face is a solid silver, engine turned face with Arabic numerals in black. There is a small seconds dial located at the 6 o'clock position, and the hands are blued steel, with a keystone shape to them. The keystone style is a throwback from the old Keystone watch company that was located in Pennsylvania. The band is leather, with a buckle style clasp.
The movement is a RGM-801. It is a hand wound movement with 19 jewels. It runs at 18,000 bph. It has a unique click to the winding mechanism, also a throw back from another previous American watchmaker, the Illinois Watch Company.
The Gold Pennsylvania Series price starts at 22,500 dollars on the RGM website, and goes up from there, depending on the options you might want to add to the watch. They also have some watches that are much lower in cost. I recommend you check out what they have to offer, if the Gold Pennsylvania is not quite to your liking. And, also, I am having a premonition, that RGM will be making an appearance in my next part to the best men's American watches under series.
The best men's mechanical hand wind watch for under 35,000
Panerai has been no stranger to the best men's watches under blog. I have included their models several times in the past now. The best men's hand wind watches under, part 1, had one, along with the best men's watches under 10,000 dollars. They are a very reputable watchmaker, with a unique style, making them a very eye catching option for many people.
The Red Gold Radiomir is no exception to the rule for Panerai. It is a unique, square bodied watch, it is large, being 45mm, and the case is made of red gold. The crown is also red gold, and located at the 3 o'clock position. It has sapphire lenses on bot the front and back of the watch, allowing you to see the movement. The dial is brown, and utilizes a layered style of finishing, the hour markers are a combination of Arabic numerals and indexes, and are imbued with a luminous feature for night time vision. There is a date window located at the 3 o'clock position, and a GMT sub dial at the 9 o'clock position, there is also a power reserve gauge located at the 6 o'clock position. The hands of the watch are also the red gold, and the watch comes standard with a brown leather band, with a buckle style clasp.
The movement is a Panerai P.2000/10 hand wind version. It is a 21 jewel movement, and runs at 28,800 bph, giving the seconds hand a super smooth motion. The movement also has an 8 day power reserve.